Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Sailing the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia

The guys were talking enthusiastically about the 53-foot-long sloop that Peter had chartered. It had everything—four rooms each with its own head, duel helms, and electric winches. "It even has bow thrusters," Peter shouted over the traffic noise. "Bowel thrusters! What's that?" asked Jill from the furthest seat back. Immediately, everyone broke into wild laughter and did again several times per day for the next week as we imagined what "bowel thrusters" might be.

Thus began our magical week sailing along the coast and islands of the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia.

Vis Luka (harbor). Views like this one was why we came to the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. 
In early September, 2014, a group of three couples sailed a Jeanneau 53 named Trinity to the islands of the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. We flew to Split and sailed out of Marina Kremic. One of the crew, Peter, had sailed the Dalmatian Coast previously and chartered our sloop for us, which made the trip very easy. Beth and I flew from Chicago to Geneva through Zurich to meet the rest of the crew before we flew to Split. Our sailing itinerary took us from Kremik to Primosten, Maslinica, Vis City, Budakovac (also off of Vis), Palmizana, and Necujem. We also toured via taxi the UNESCO Hertitage Sites of Trogir and Diacletian's Palace in Split.

Captain's Log from September 6 to September 12, 2014


Saturday: Our group flew from Geneva to Split on EasyJet and took a taxi to Marina Kremik where we met our Jeanneau 53 sloop, which we sailed a short distance to Primosten to spend the night swinging on a mooring ball and enjoying the ancient city.

Trinty had plenty of room, two wheels, electric winches, thrusters, solar panels, four state rooms, and four heads. 

The peninsula of Primosten was a beautiful introduction to Dalmatia. We dine on fresh fish and walked to the church at the top of the hill.

Sunday: From Primosten, we had a leisurely day in light wind to the beautiful harbor of Maslinica on the island of Solta. We arrived at rush hour in the late afternoon. Boats were lined up for 3 hours backing into the quay. Only one of our crew had every moored in this manner before and it showed. Other crew made it look so easy.

The view from Tinity's cockpit while moored in Maslinica. 

Nearly all of these boats and many others arrived in the late afternoon at Maslinica, our introduction to Med Mooring. 

Each harbor had fresh food and lovely surroundings and views. This restaurant in Maslinica was named after bats: Sakajet. 

Monday: From Maslinica, we sailed to the large and ancient port of Vis where we picked up a mooring ball near a popular restaurant. We didn't realize the wonderful antiquities we would see in Vis Grad.

The 16th Century Church of St. Jerome was built from the remains of a Roman theater on a small peninsula in Vis harbor. 

Beth takes pictures of the beautiful harbor in Vis. 

Beth met a biking nun at the door of the 16th Century Palace Gariboldi in Vis. 

16th Century Church of Our Lady of Spilice in Vis. 
Tuesday: From Vis harbor, we sailed around the island to the Blue Caves and then further around to Budakovac where we picked up another mooring ball. We took the dinghy into the cave to see the amazing blue light reflecting up from beneath the surface. Budakovac was both beautiful and rustic and became a favorite spot.

Sunset at Budakovac, one of our favorite spots. 

Beth relaxes in Trinity's cockpit at Budakovac. 

Wednesday: We sailed north to the island of St. Klement off the big island of Hvar to Palmazana harbor. St. Klement has many small inlets surrounding the island where boats may anchor alone, but the larger Palmazana harbor features restaurants and resorts, which we didn't want to miss.

Signs for three restaurants near Palmazana. 
Beth at the helm leaving Palmazana. 

Thursday: We left Palmazana in unstable weather and had to duck into the large anchorage of Necujem at the end of the day. We waited out a squall and scouted good anchor ground before putting down our anchor in a picturesque spot. The weather cleared just before sunset. Two of us rowed the dinghy to a taverna for their special risotto and brought it back to the hungry crew. We never tasted such good risotto. In the morning, we saw a Dalmatian riding in the bow of a dinghy. A good omen, we thought.

Everyone read.
We had plenty of time to read. 

A Dalmatian rides the bow of a dinghy past Trinity and our cameras. A good omen, we thought as we prepared to leave Necujem for our home port, Kremic. 

Friday: From Necujem, we motor-sailed to our home port of Kremik where we got fuel and prepared to check in the next morning. In the late afternoon, we took a taxi to Trogir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In Marina Kremik, the line for the fuel dock was an hour. We were glad to have thrusters against the growing breeze. 

A short taxi ride took us to the walls of Trogir and another fine dinner, this time in the pouring rain. 
One of the hotels along the quay in Trogir. 

Saturday: We checked Trinity into the charter company and took a taxi to Split to see Diocletian's Palace, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Later that afternoon, we left Split for Geneva

Beth hams it up with the Roman actors in Diocletian's Palace, Split.  

Church at Diocletian's Palace, Split. 

Hotel on the quay in Split. 

Beth tries out her Croatian on the clerk at the fruit stand in Split. 
The islands near Split on the Dalmatian Coast, Croatia. 

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