Day 6: Little Harbor to Road Harbor

Our last day away from the charter harbor in Road Town was exciting. We sailed around Yost Van Dyke with 15-20 kt winds, favorable for beam reaches and a ncie wing-on-wing run near the northwest of the island. It was our best ailing day of the week.

Captain Beth had an unfulfilled agenda item--man overboard practice. Once we rounded the west end of Yost Van Dyke, our wind died down to 10 kts or less. The Captain went through some dry runs and eventually two gallon jugs, tethered at their handles, were sent overboard. The scenario assumed that I went overboard and the Captain was the only other crew--a likely scenario.

On the first pass, I got run over and keel hauled--my jug alterego did. The next passes were much better. More practice when Speakeasy is launched.

We sailed on with a better wind as we approached Soper's Hole. Once we sailed through the narrows at Thatch Island, we caught a small squall. Some nice sailing, but upwind, and then it passed.

The group wanted one more chance to snorkel, so we moter sailed to Pelican Rock and were lucky to get a National Park mooring ball. With an hour left to reach Sunsail, we cast off for the last time and made a beeline for Road Harbor.

I thought it was strange that we could hear Moorings Charter communication on the radio, but not Sunsail. We thought we'd be able to pick them up when we got from behind Pelican Island, but we still heard nothing in the middle of Sir Francis Drake. We were relieved when reports began coming in and that a dock hand would steer thhe oat to a slip from the B Dock. All we needed to do was get to B.

I was at the helm and gentle poke our bow down B. This is not what I expected. No room at either end of B for another yacht. I decided to back out and wait for a sign. A dock hand reminded us of our dinghy painter, which I had forgotten. Beth and Bob monitored the dinghy and drew in the painter. We were free to peek on the other side of B Dock for room or help. Beth kept Sunsail apprised of our situation.

Before we had time to do much more, a very bad thing happened. We lost reverse. No problem, I thought, I'll keep the speed down and circle beyond the dock. Then, just as suddenly, we lost forward too. We were a drift and heading broadside at a catamaran at the A Dock. Bob jumped in the dinghy, which was tethered on the port and pulled us away from the cat. Meanwhile, a Moorings hand took our dock lines and helped us raft to the cat.

We sighed in relief and took stock for a moment. We did pretty well. We had fenders at the ready, Bob took the dinghy, we had found help on shore. Is this what the ads mean by Miller Time?

In a few minutes, a Sunsail hand come to our rescue in a dinghy. He asked some questions and went off again. When he returned, he had a plan to push us to what was left of a T dock on the far side of B Dock. There awaited two hands, who took our lines and secured us. We were home.

Julien, who had given our chart a boat review a week ago came around to see what the fuss was all about. He mused that it could be oil in the transmission fluid, a broken shift at the helm, or a broken shift cable. That last, that was it. A broken cotter pin allowed the clevis pin to work itself lose. This was waiting to happen for some time. Perhaps all week. "WD-40!" Julien shouted. "Why don't they spray with WD-40." There's a tip. Speakeasy is getting sprayed with WD-40.

After all took a long shower, we gathered to ride in Mr. Maloney's taxi to The Dove, where we had a 4-star meal a week ago. We were tired. Most of us were happy to be in civilian clothes again. Perhaps not Betty, who slipped getting back in the boat from the dock. More bruises. Damn, those high-heeled sneakers. Bob helped us toast the event with a very good bottle of Chardonnay. There would be no ordering off the appetizer menu on this night. We all gorged from the main menu and had desert.

We slept like babies while it rained all evening and through the night. The next day was a race to taxis, ferries, and planes. For a few hours more it was peace.

Day 5: Norman to Jost Van Dyke

A bit after dawn, we headed for a day mooring at Treasure Rock for some peaceful snorkeling. We nearly made our get away without paying the mooring fee, but all of a sudden a boat pulls up along side prepared to accept $25. The snorkeling was splendid.

Our aft water tank went dry at bedtime so we switched to the forward tank and planned a trip to Little Harbor on Yost Van Dyke, which claimed to have water and was near Sidney's Peace and Love and Foxy's (at Great Harbor). We got underway before breakfast so we dined on autopilot. Quiche Lorraign. The provisioner had made delicious meals for us.

Such light air, we had to motor to Little Harbor. Once passed Soper's Hole on Tortola, we tries the sails, but we quickly doused them again.

Our mooring was near a rocky shoreline that went nearly straight up to over 400 meters. The trees near the water were a Pelican rookery so we got to see Pelicans fish and groom. Snorkeling was not as good--too grassy, but we did see a Barracuda up close. While on board, we saw another turtle and schools of fish. Bob and Corkey never got close to any of them with their tackle.

Some of us walked the track from Little Harbor to Great Harbor to visit Foxy's. Bob and Sue took the dinghy. Sidney, who had visit our boat when we arrived to hawk his restaurant, appeared with two massive lobster and exclaimed that it was our dinner. Now we had incentive to return from Foxy's.

Foxy's had the usual island drinks, but it also had beer made on the island with Oregon hops. The men had to sample the red and brown ales.

Back down the track to Sidney's Peace and Love, our table was waiting. While Sidney commands the kitchen, his daughter is host and runs a boutique. That leaves no one to tend bar so it is self serve. Customers helped me get a bottle of wine and sign on our slip. When I got back to the table, five lobster halves were in front of all but Corkey, who had barbecue. I've never seen such large lobster or so much lobster on a single table.

What about the fresh water for our aft tank? "No water on the island. No water for us. No water for you." We and our guide book were misinformed. We went into conservation mode with only one day left.

Buckley's Book

In 1990 William Buckley was forming a crew for a transatlantic all-expense-paid cruise. All the crew members needed to do was write a journal and give the result to Bill for data for a book that he would write. The book became Windfall: The End of the Affair (1993).

I've missed an opportunity. There were six crew on Aegir Frey out of Road Town, BVI last week and only one (perhaps two) had any notes. If a journal were required, my skimpy notes would be much more robust. Perhaps I can get the crew to comment to my post?

Day 4: St Thomas Bay to Norman

Since we had been lucky getting moorings, getting the last one twice in three days, I got up at dawn to preare an early departure from St Thomas Bay. The weather was great for a sail with an easterly 15 kts. We had a great sail to Norman Island--aka Teasure Island.

By now we noticed that the fuel guage had not moved from 4/4. Full. The obvious solution was to measure the fuel with a clean stick. Unfortunately, the fuel cap required a wrench to remove the cap that we did not have. I called Sunsail to see if this was an issue. "No problem," I was told. Apparently, we had enough fuel for 2 weeks no matter what the guage reported.

One of the best snorkeling spots is Treasure Point, a bit of rock on the southeast side of the Mancheneel Harbor. Exotic flora and fauna awaited us and we were eager to get in the water. In addition to the plants and animals, there were caves to explore at Treasure Point.

Dinner was the best yet. We feasted on halibut and scallops--a creation of Sue's. It's so important to have a variety of talents on a cruise. We were fortunate to have several clever cooks aboard.

Day 3: Gorda to St Thomas Bay

We were ready for a big breakfast after a restless rainy night. A dangerous stove gimble unlatched and nearly dumped hot bacon grease on Betty. The breakfast scramble with bacon was terrific.

I tried to judge the best time to head to the T dock for our free water and ice. The aft tank was already empty and we didn't when water would be available again. When the breakfast dishes were done we were ready to proceed to the dock, but so were tree other boats. The decision was made to stand in line, which gave Beth an opportunity to practice motoring in close proximity to moored boats. Before we dropped the ball, Beth practiced shifting the transmission, which was not intuitive because it had a single lever for in-gear throttle and neutral throttle. Everyone had time to grumble about boats that treated the dock as a day mooring rather than a quick pit stop. Some boats took more space than needed too. Beth took us into dock like a pro, gently without hesitation. With Bob on the bow line and I at the stern we slowed the boat and walked it to the end of the dock so there was room for another boat behind us.

Once we had secured the boat at the dock, the crew split up to tend the dock lines, get charcoal and ice, empty the trash, pay the mooring fee, and, most importantly, fill the water tanks.

A few minutes later, we cast off to take a tour of Gorda Sound which contains resorts, no frills anchorages, and stores for locals. The bigget resort is the Bitter End. We took a long look at it as we motored past the largest mooring field in the BVI.

Our departure was much later than the previous day and we did not know how far we could go before we ran out of opportunities to get a ball for the night. Our course took us from Mosquito Island to St Thomas Bay where we got the last mooring ball.

It was time for a swim and cocktails. Soon, Corkey spotted a sea Turtle and a pelican while he fished. For a bit of Terra Firma, we took the dinghie to Virgin Gorda Harbor for a walk, shopping, and Painkillers (a local rum drink). All three women found jewelry. The men found a bottle of rum for more Painkillers onboard. Chickens. Pelican roosting.

Betty began talking of pies that she likes to make or Corkey likes to eat. Cherry, blueberry, and mixed berry. Soon we were squirming with hunger. We got in the dinghie and headed for the boat where chicken curry awaited.

Day 2: Baths to Gorda Sound

I woke just off Cooper Island at daybreak with a knock on the door. Bob was helping us get off early so that we could get a mooring ball at The Bathes before the huge tour ship filled the area with other tourists. We set off quickly after a cold breakfast and got one of the last balls at Devils Beach.

We hiked to The Baths through beautiful caves and rock formations. The slippery rocks that climbed through took inovation to pass over, around, or under. No one survived wothout a scratch at least.

The Bathes were just filling when we got there. We drank some water and then hiked the high path back to Devils Beach. We left Sue at The Bathes and picked her up in the dinghie. This was difficult because of the throngs of swimmers and snorklers. some were heckling us and our dinghie.

Back onboard, we hang around for anoter hour swim and snorkel before setting off to St. Thomas Bay. No mooring balls there so we pressed on to Gorda Sound. We got the last ball by fending off anther boat that had been following us for 2 hours.

We had a round of cocktails, lit the charcoal, and prepared a feast of Mahi Mahi. What a meal!

That night, light rain woke us as we scrambled to close hatches and port holes.

Day 1: Road Town to Coopers Island

Provisions arrived the evening prior in a red two-wheeled cart with pneumatic tires. All hands participated in stowing the grub, which meant that no one knew where everthing was. Butter was not found for days. Little attention was paid to the sailling craft other than as a B&B the first night. Bunks were chosen on the basis of stories of snoring. The captain and mate fled to the bow as these stories intensified. The snorers were split between the aft cabins. The benefit of the foreward cabin was the integral head just aft of the anchor locker. The aft cabins had to share a head, but had larger cabins and could use the salon as an antiroom.

We chose a restaurant based on a tip from a cabby: not always a reliable source. This turned out to be a hot tip. We ate every apetizer on the menu and arranged to meet there again in a week due to the quality and originality of the food.

During the morning chart meeting, Julien, the young man in charge, raced through the many harbors at our disposal during the week. He had tips about meals, bars, live music, fresh water, ice, and provisions. Julien also covered some boat and saftey issues. Mostly, it was too much to take in.

Preparing the boat. The boat was missing a horseshoe and saftey strobe, which a hand replaced. Two of our party picked-up fishing gear and bolted it to the aft rails. Gear was stowed. Provisions were counted and assessed.

We reviewed casting off for the crew. Fenders were placed at the ready. Mate Bob handled the bow line tie to a post. None of us, including Captain Beth, had used a shift with a button for in gear vs. neutral. This caused a problem because the boat was not in gear as we cast off and we drifted toward the neighboring boat. Once the craft was in gear, we motored out of the slip using fenders to push off the neighbor.

A course was set to a near island, Coopers. For a few minutes lines were inspected for their purpose. None of us had sailed with a full complement of lines brought back to the cabin. As we brought up the main, we had trouble with a batton getting stuck in the topping line. We adjusted the topping, but in retrospect, adjusting the main halyard would have done better. The roller furling worked very well. When we dropped the main, it wouldn't flake completely into the Lazy Bag and had to be pulled and flaked by hand.

We reached Coopers Island before 4:00, but only one mooring ball remained. We took it and commenced creating an outstanding salad for dinner.