South Haven to Monroe Harbor, Chicago

Since would be a long trip across open water, we got an early start. At 0430 there was a very light breeze and the Lake was glass. We motored for hours before the wind and waves picked up. By 0900 there was wind from the South at 17 knots, which allowed us to sail with the engine off for a few minutes. However, by 0940 the engine was on again and the wind was from the West--right at us. At this point, we were 36 nm from Chicago. 


In the next 10 miles, the wind and waves increased. By 26 miles from Chicago, a storm wind with gusts above 40 knots and 30+ sustained hit us. We had two bursts of this high wind. Waves were 10 feet. In preparation for the storm, we furled the foresail and double-reef the main. Our wind direction instrument was telling us lies, but it was easy to tell where the wind was coming from--Northwest. The main was set to dump most of the air out of the sail. Speakeasy is healing, but acting well even in the gusts. We were tethered and hanging on. 


After the wind dropped below 30 knots, I dropped a mark on the chartplotter at about 28 miles from Chicago (N 42 07.377' W087 04.447'). A few miles later, Beth sighted the Chicago skyline  (N42 05.802' W087 09.604) and snapped a picture. 

Sunrise over South Haven

Storm clouds building

Beth snaps a picture of the Chicago skyline after the storm

Chicago skyline approaching the Chicago Light

Chicago Light

Grand Haven to South Haven

Another early morning with rain at dawn accompanied by wind at 25 knots. By the time we leave it's 0730 with no wind and light waves. Rain ahead in a few hours. At 1100 we past Holland with the wind on our nose: S 15 knots. By noon the wind begins to  shift enough to sail: SW at 15 knots. We set our new blue reef 1 line and motorsail at 6 knots.

Grand Haven Light

Pentwater to Grand Haven

I awoke at 0500 to a rain shower, which quickly passed. Speakeasy departed Pentwater an hour later in a light wind from the south with a flat sea. As we left the harbor, we could see boats at the Yacht Club that were in the Race to Mackinac. We recognized one of them as Free Agent--the dismasted boat we saw in Leland. Another boat belonged to a friend, Journey. It has boom and sail damage. 


We could see that more showers were moving across lake toward our destination, Grand Haven. We thought we might not get that far today. The wind picked up about 0930 so we could let out the jib, but stopped about 5 NM from White Lake. Our sailing friend, Paul, was sending messages about a storm in Wisconsin and Illinois that was crossing the Lake. We took a detour to White Lake and hung on a mooring  ball at the White Lake Yacht Club for an hour. I nearly fell in lake getting the mooring line through the tiny shackle. Beth had to pull hard on my leg to keep my aboard as I dangled over the side. 


We had a nice lunch and hot chocolate while it rained and continued south once it stopped. I became a bit rolly after the rain near Muskegon, but we reached Grand Haven by 1800. 

Back From the Mac: Boats include Journey and Free Agent

Manistee to Pentwater

We slept in until 0730 on a hot night in Manistee. The morning had a bright blue sky. Beth was still beaming over her stern-in success at the Municipal Harbor. 


The wind was still coming at us at 15 knots with a nearly calm sea. Speakeasy motor sailed to Big Pt Sable where we hope the wind would change has we rounded it. We did catch a break, the wind stayed southwest as we angled east. There was not much wind, but at least it was favorable on our beam.


There was a magnificent sunset in Pentwater that we enjoyed with Beth's brother whom came up from Stony Lake to dine with us aboard Speakeasy. 

Sunset over Pentwater Lake

Mark and Bob enjoy steak on Speakeasy

Leland to Manistee

Speakeasy got out of her slip in Leland at 0400 into. Dark, in other words. There was a light southerly breeze that picked up to 20 later. The calm sea was supposed to build throughout the day. By 0700 the wind had increased to 17 knots and the waves to 3 feet. By 1000 the wind was 20 knots and the waves were 3-5 feet. We rounded Pt Betsey about 1100. 


We were motor sailing in order to reach Manistee at a reasonable hour. By the time we were 8 NM from Manistee we could let out all of the jib and head straight toward the Manistee light. 


The Manistee River greeted us with a wall of heat so powerful we thought we were entering an autoclave. Manistee Municipal Harbor had space for us at their new facility, which had just opened a couple week earlier. The only problem was that river back rocks prevented boats from getting very close to the onshore electricity and water. One either packs an extension cable or docks stern-in. I had docked a couple weeks earlier, so it was Beth's turn. After a trip to the fuel dock, she took Speakeasy out into the river and twirled her around. Then, powered her back into the slip. Nicely done. 

Skipper Beth on Speakeasy docked stern-in, Manistee

Beaver Island to Leland

We left our slip just before 6:00 with only light fog. Heavy fog was in the forecast. We learned later that the fog was heavy in Leland. We motorsailed in a light favorable southwest wind and flat sea  making 6 kt. With the main and a bit of jib that we adjusted with strength of the breeze.

We were sad to leave the Island and Read two Charlie Donaldson poems in honor. We made such good time that we considered going on to Frankfort, but that was another 6 hours and decided against it. Besides we had an opportunity to see a friend. Unfortunately the friend had other plans.

The harbormaster gave us a slip assignment just past a cutter rigged boat that looked like Wind Star that we first met in Leland and had just seen in Mackinac Island. As we neared the boat, Beth says it doesn't just look like Wind Star, it is!

Beaver Island Lighthouse School: Teaching speaking to young men

We wait at the ferry Dock with Steve and part of his family who are returning to the mainland. The schlumpy students disembark and gather around their luggage. One grabs a smoke and a kiss from his girl who was waiting for him. They jostle for seats in one of the two vans. We guests get to ride with Steve alone in a third van.

Steve is very quiet on the road to the school at the south end of the island. Both Beth and I attempt to engage him in topics. Nothing clicks. We don't know where we stand. Finally Beth discusses her workshop and Steve comes to life. Together we decide to read "Wolf" (Great Books Foundation) and do stories about "bad weather" and "first times".

 These nine men are assigned to prepare the school for the Fall term and I did't know if they are used to being read to. One is a graduate of the school, but most are new to it. Wolf is a captivating story about wilderness, snow, a man, and his dog--it captures their imagination. I don't  know how to close the reading so I stumble through. My introduction of Beth is even worse. Now She is on her own.

Beth gets some weak starter video segments from the men but pulls positives from each of them. The men seem interested in each other but fear the task.

A hard patch as Beth lectures. These men have made ignoring school tasks an art. If a question is asked, they ignore it. Take a posture that hides and protects. Pick a scab or put boots on the desk and back slouched in a chair. A cap is a useful prop to wave and rock back and forth on your head.

Steve suggests a new tactic--Interview skills.  We divide into pairs to roll play and get these on video. Again Beth pulls positives from each performance. She's good. 

We end with a stride and glide to the front with a few words regarding an interesting bit of knowledge learned today.